Istanbul Interlude part 2

One of our most interesting days was when we crossed the Golden Horn, the natural harbour which separates the two parts of the European side of the city. We were heading for the Galata tower which was accessed up a very steep hill. We came across a big DIY market spreading up the hill, but the climb was so steep I forgot to take any photos!!

A lift sped us to the top of the tower and here are some views from the top.

We stopped for a quick lunch and I even had a tower shaped biscuit with my tea.

We continued to the top and came across the modern shopping street, so different from the streets and markets of Sultanahmet. In the old town is a very new and modern tram system.

This is used like an overground metro with gates on the stops. The trams are two double cars long and were always very full.

In the modern shopping area was this nostalgic tram which ran backwards and forwards. It was a great opportunity for boys and young men to hang from the back.

As with most things in Istanbul we saw lots and lots of musical instrument shops in a really small area, Also along the street was the Catholic church which seemed very dark after the mosques.

A recent statue of John Paul 2nd

 

Eating is an important pastime in Istanbul and there are plenty of fast food places as well as restaurants to choose from.. We saw these boats which were floating kitchens. The customers sat on the land. Whether it was the traffic or simply because it was so much smaller than the other two but the middle boat was rocking alarmingly all the time we were watching.

The man going in the door was delivering a stack of bread. It looked as though the dough had been piped into circles before being cooked and then piled up to look like a basket. It was for sale all over the place and was a popular snack.

I also saw this man making the local Turkish pizza which looked boat shaped and often had an egg cooked in the middle of it.

When we went across to the Asian side of Istanbul by ferry - a not very inspiring trip - Peter had this for lunch. Just a wrap but beautifully presented.

For the evenings we found a restaurant we particularly liked and went back each evening. Compared to the summer the city was quiet and many of the restaurants were struggling to fill their covers so we were hasstled as we walked down the road each with an enticing offer of a warm fire and an interesting menu. The one we chose was less pushy than many, had an interesting menu and was reasonably priced. On our first trip there we chose a meal cooked in a pot which is broken open at the table. A performance took place!

First the pot is headed over charcole

A little of the contents are poured out

After ensuring the top is sealed with foil the pot is inverted and the bottom knocked off - there is a special fault line around the pot.

The delicious meal was then served.

Yes I know it was probably cooked in another pot in the kitchen and only put in this one for serving but it made an interesting display and the food was delicious. Peter had a flamed mixed grill on our last evening but sadly the photo didn't come out. That tasted good too.

There are many mosques in Istanbul which are in constant use. However we only went in two, the Blue Mosque which is the biggest and the Rustem Pasha which is considered the most beautiful on account of its tiled walls as opposed to the painted walls of many others. See for yourselvs.

The Rustem Pasha Mosque

Though highly decorated there are few treasures in a Mosque and they seem very bright as they have so many lights. There were men constantly going in to pray. As long as we showed respect and stayed behind the barrier we could take photographs and talk quietly. In larger mosques the ladies have a gallery to pray on, but the older ones have a screen at the back so the upper layers can be preserved.

A Mosque should be open for prayer 24 hours a day 7 days a week. A door would be heavy and noisy and so a heavy leather curtain is hung over the doors to allow access leaving the drafts outside.

The Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque at night

Below the streets of Istanbul the remains of an ancient cistern was found. On our last morning we took one last walk to visit it. The columns and plinths clearly came from many other buildings as they were quite a mixture of styles.

The bottom two pictures are of Medusa heads found at the bottom of 2 columns inone corner of the cistern.

And here is what I bought for myself. I have some presents for the family but I won't spoil the surprises for them.



It was good to get away from the cold and damp of Moscow. Istanbul is a lovely and interesting city and we had a good break.

Istanbul interlude

Winter in Moscow has not been too bad. Since we got back in January it has not below minus 15 and three weeks ago the thaw started. Suddenly we were faced with mountains of slush, massive puddles and frozen slush as the temperature dropped each night. It was a most unpleasant time.

So last Saturday Peter and I headed to Istanbul for a few days of plus temperatures and NO SNOW!!. Peter and I have been to Turkey twice before, once for our Silver Wedding in 2002 and to Bodrum in 2008 but this was a new adventure. A history lesson at every turn. I haven't got to grips with the history or the geography properly, but enjoy the photographs I took.

We arrived at lunchtime and were met by an efficient lady who showed us to our taxi. Having booked into the hotel in a quiet location we set off for a walk. As it was so cloudy I took few photo hoping it would clear up in the next few days. This is a structure outside the Islamic museum of Science and Technology. We went back a couple of days later and it was fascinating. They were a clever lot in the Middle Ages.

We carried on through gardens which are being planted up with pansies to the water edge and around under the city walls built (I think) in the Byzantium era.

We were very tired so had a meal in an OK restaurant near the hotel and headed to bed ready for an early start.

Our first stop was the Hagia Sofia or Ayasofia as it is also known. This has been both a Christian church and a Mosque before becoming a museum. It is now a rather odd mix as it has both Christian and Islamic symbols showing at the same time which would never happen in real life.

The building is pretty impressive but has little outside decoration.

The ceiling of the Narthex - entrance lobby

A Christian symbol

Christian wall painting

All the wall paintings had been covered over while it was a Mosque but many have been uncovered.

This is one of four archangels, but the only one with its face showing. The other three had gold bosses put over them and look decidedly creepy.



The dome is beautifully painted

The balcony where the ladies would have sat.

An alabaster jar

I don't know what this pavilion is for.

The niche on the end wall shows Moslems which way is Mecca so they know which way to face when they pray. Because the orientation is  for a church the niche is slightly off centre.

These three are taken from a pavilion used for council meetings in the Topkapi Palace. Sadly we didn't allow ourselves enough time to go round it all as we had a river trip booked so I only took a few pictures as we scurried round. A place to revisit. The ceramics are amazing and I would love to have a wall of Islamic tiles somewhere in a house of the future.

The markets in Istanbul are out of this world. They are noisy, colourful and overflowing. The Egyptian or Spice market and the Grand Bazzar are the well known ones, but the very day markets are just as interesting. See what I mean.

The Spice Market was full of wonderful characters and the sights and sounds...

The Grand Bazaar has 4000 stalls and is the largest covered market in the World. It has something like 16 entrances, a couple of Mosques and several water fountains. You can buy just about anything there and you have to haggle. haggle, haggle. I could have spent a fortune in there, but where would I put it all?

Your local garden centre

Anyone for a tea or coffee set?

The regular markets for the local folk were just as interesting. We saw whole streets dedicated to DIY in the BIG sense of the word. Everything from a tiny nut and bolt to traffic cones and protective gear. You name it, it was there. And the same went for all walks of life from clothes to bathrooms.

The sellers all need a drink so this is another familiar sight. The top photo is of a Sahlep seller. That pot is steaming and sells a delicious drink called Sahlep which is made from Orchid roots. Having taken his picture the least I could do was buy a cup, and I was surprised how delicious it was. The tea carriers are everywhere as are young waiters carrying food or empty plates to and from the stalls. They don't stop for lunch, so lunch and tea comes to them!!

I will publish now and add more photographs over the weekend.